Recipe

Freshly Milled Whole-Wheat Pasta with Oyster Mushrooms and Browned Butter

By Andrew Janjigian

This sifted, freshly milled wheat flour fettuccine retains all of the sweet, earthy flavor of the wheat berry with none of the grainy texture that plagues many commercial whole-wheat pastas. It has a light, delicate texture with a hint of “bite” despite having far less gluten than white-flour pasta doughs. It’s also dead easy to make: Unlike most white pasta doughs (which usually fight back during mixing and rolling, thanks to tight gluten networks), it can be mixed into a dough quickly by hand and (after a requisite hour-long rest) rolled by machine into noodles. The dough is a tiny bit sticky during rolling and cutting; be sure to flour the exterior of the dough regularly as you go to keep it from sticking to itself.

SFS_Freshly_20Milled_20Whole_20Wheat_20Pasta_20with_20Oyster_20Mushrooms_20and_20Brown_20Butter_013.jpg
Ingredients
345 g freshly milled whole-wheat flour, plus extra as needed
1.5 g plus 2 g plus 18 g kosher salt, divided
150 g eggs (3 large eggs) plus 20 g egg yolk (1 large yolk)
15 g plus 3,600 g water, divided, plus extra as needed
12 g plus 28 g extra-virgin olive oil, divided
450 g oyster mushrooms, trimmed and torn into bite-size pieces
90 g unsalted butter
7 g fresh sage leaves (20 leaves), sliced thin
  pepper
28 g plus 28 g Parmesan cheese, grated fine
2 cups plus 3 tablespoons (12⅛ ounces) freshly milled whole-wheat flour, plus extra as needed
½ teaspoon plus ¾ teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons kosher salt, divided
3  large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon plus 4 quarts water, divided, plus extra as needed
1 tablespoon plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 pound oyster mushrooms, trimmed and torn into bite-size pieces
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
20  fresh sage leaves, sliced thin
  pepper
1 ounce plus 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated fine (½ cup plus ½ cup)
Essential Equipment
Instructions
    • 345 g freshly milled whole-wheat flour, plus extra as needed
    • 1.5 g kosher salt
    • 150 g eggs (3 large eggs) plus 20 g egg yolk (1 large yolk)
    • 15 g water, plus extra as needed
    • 12 g extra-virgin olive oil  

    Sift flour through 50-mesh flour sifter into large bowl and discard bran remaining in sieve (or save for another use). Add 1.5 grams salt and whisk to combine. Whisk eggs and yolk, 15 grams water, and 12 grams oil in second bowl until combined. Make well in center of flour mixture and pour in egg mixture. Using wooden spoon, stir until mixture forms cohesive dough that feels soft and is barely tacky to touch. (If dough sticks to your fingers, add up to 40 grams extra flour, 20 grams at a time, until barely tacky. If dough doesn’t become cohesive, add up to 15 grams extra water, 5 grams at a time, until dough just comes together.)
  1. Turn dough out onto lightly floured counter and knead until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Shape dough into 6-inch-long cylinder. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours.
  2. To roll out pasta dough, cut dough into 6 equal pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time (re-cover remaining dough with plastic), flatten into disk and run through rollers set to widest position. Bring ends of dough toward middle and press down to seal. Run dough through widest setting 2 more times. If dough is at all sticky, lightly dust with flour. Roll pasta thinner by putting it through machine repeatedly, narrowing setting each time. Roll until dough is thin and satiny. You should be able to see outline of your hand through pasta. Dust pasta sheet liberally with flour and set aside. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough.
  3. To cut fettuccine, run each sheet through wide cutter on pasta machine. Each noodle will measure 1/8 to ¼ inch across. Dust pasta liberally with flour and set aside while making sauce.
    • 3,600 g water
    • 450 g oyster mushrooms, trimmed and torn into bite-size pieces
    • 2 g kosher salt
    • 28 g extra-virgin olive oil
    • 90 g unsalted butter
    • 7 g sage leaves (20 leaves), sliced thin

    Bring 3,600 grams water to boil in large Dutch oven. Meanwhile, toss mushrooms and 2 grams salt together in bowl and let sit until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Heat 28 grams oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened and beginning to brown at edges, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to bowl. Add butter and sage to now-empty skillet, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Return mushrooms to skillet, remove from heat, and cover to keep warm.
    • 18 g kosher salt
    • Pepper
    • 28 g plus 28 g Parmesan cheese, grated fine

    Add pasta and 18 grams salt to boiling water and cook, stirring often, until al dente, about 5 minutes. Reserve 1 1/2 cups (340 grams) cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add mushroom sauce, 1 cup (227 grams) reserved cooking water, and 28 grams Parmesan and toss well to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Serve immediately, passing remaining Parmesan separately. 
Instructions
    • 2 cups plus 3 tablespoons (12⅛ ounces) freshly milled whole-wheat flour, plus extra as needed
    • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
    • 3 large eggs plus 1 large yolk
    • 1 tablespoon water, plus extra as needed
    • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

    Sift flour through 50-mesh flour sifter into large bowl and discard bran remaining in sieve (or save for another use). Add ½ teaspoon salt and whisk to combine. Whisk eggs and yolk, 1 tablespoon water, and 1 tablespoon oil in second bowl until combined. Make well in center of flour mixture and pour in egg mixture. Using wooden spoon, stir until mixture forms cohesive dough that feels soft and is barely tacky to touch. (If dough sticks to your fingers, add up to 2 tablespoons extra flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until barely tacky. If dough doesn’t become cohesive, add up to 1 tablespoon extra water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until dough just comes together.)
  1. Turn dough out onto lightly floured counter and knead until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Shape dough into 6-inch-long cylinder. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours.
  2. To roll out pasta dough, cut dough into 6 equal pieces. Working with 1 piece at a time (re-cover remaining dough with plastic), flatten into disk and run through rollers set to widest position. Bring ends of dough toward middle and press down to seal. Run dough through widest setting 2 more times. If dough is at all sticky, lightly dust with flour. Roll pasta thinner by putting it through machine repeatedly, narrowing setting each time. Roll until dough is thin and satiny. You should be able to see outline of your hand through pasta. Dust pasta sheet liberally with flour and set aside. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough.
  3. To cut fettuccine, run each sheet through wide cutter on pasta machine. Each noodle will measure 1/8 to ¼ inch across. Dust pasta liberally with flour and set aside while making sauce.
    • 4 quarts water
    • 1 pound oyster mushrooms, trimmed and torn into bite-size pieces
    • ¾ teaspoon kosher salt
    • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
    • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
    • 20 sage leaves, sliced thin

    Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large Dutch oven. Meanwhile, toss mushrooms and ¾ teaspoon salt together in bowl and let sit until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until softened and beginning to brown at edges, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to bowl. Add butter and sage to now-empty skillet, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until butter is dark golden brown and has nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Return mushrooms to skillet, remove from heat, and cover to keep warm.
    • 2 tablespoons kosher salt
    • Pepper
    • 1 ounce plus 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated fine (½ cup plus ½ cup)

    Add pasta and 2 tablespoons salt to boiling water and cook, stirring often, until al dente, about 5 minutes. Reserve 1 1/2 cups cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add mushroom sauce, 1 cup reserved cooking water, and ½ cup Parmesan and toss well to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Adjust consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Serve immediately, passing remaining Parmesan separately.
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